Day 20 Castrillo de Los Polvazares to Acebo

I had a terrible nights sleep last night I think the chocolate pudding may have had E numbers in it.

I got up at 0500 , I went through the normal routine and left the hotel at 0545,it was still dark,I had planned to be halfway through the walk by 1000 to beat the sun

I headed off towards Saint Catalina as fast as I could,I was surprised to see other walkers out this early.

I had a pastry on the move and I was off again towards El Granso.

I was gently climbing from the word go,The Pyrenees were always on the horizon waiting for me.

El Granso is very much like any other another village in this region.

I stopped at the end of the village for supplies and more water,I had learnt from yesterday ,I was going to top myself up with food and water every opportunity I could.I was not going to get caught out in this heat.

Much  to my amazement I arrived at Rabanal del Camino by 0900 ,I had shaved an hour off my eta,which was as well as the sun was back in action,I prayed I would not run into Rab!!! So predictable sorry!!

Another pit stop I drank over a litre of water and had a pastry,when I took my boots off I could hear my aching trotters sigh.This little chap shared my breakfast .

So did this big one.

It was soon time to move on,I knew I had the hard bit  to come,I was going to climb back into The Pyrenees .

Back on my own again.

I started to climb.

On and on.

And on and on and on.

Another grim reminder of the toll this walk can take.

Where was I? O yes I remember I was climbing on and on and on and still on.

Then after what seemed an eternity I arrived at Foncebadon, I had peaked.

I devote this picture to Simon Tauber a friend and neighbour who is walking the Northern Camino which runs through The Pyrenees for 500 miles and ends in Santiago ,he leaves tomorrow and I would like to wish him all the luck in the world,having just had a 4 hour taste of doing battle with The Pyrenees ,I have  a shrewd idea what he is in for.Buen Camino SImon.

Anyway you may remember I said I had peaked ,well I hadn't ,after I had stopped in Foncebadon for food and water,I started to climb again,heading towards Cruz de Ferre ,which is the mound of stones placed by pilgrims , each stone is a memorial and has its own story to tell,this is probably the most famous landmark on The Camino,I had got 4 stones to place two had been in my rucksack since I had left home.I had so looked forward to seeing this place and was one of the reasons I was doing the walk.

After walking for 340 miles I looked up and there was the mound in front of me ,I could not believe it,as I have always been honest how I have felt on this journey,I have to tell you I got very emotional indeed I just could not believe I had made it

I placed my stones ,one for Anita my mum in memory of Mark and Dad,another in memory of my Mum,I had picked a stone up when I left Jeremy two weeks ago,so I could lay it here on behalf of him and NIgel in memory of their parents Denniss and Joan,my last stone we had picked up on a sunny day on The South Downs,it felt so right leaving it here.

It really is an incredible place and I was so pleased I had made it.

It was time to go,I really felt that I had served my purpose on this journey now.

I stopped at Manjarin for half an hour in the shade,I changed my socks as I was showing signs of a blister,by now I had been climbing for 3 hours and walking for six I was worn out.

Another half an hour to climb then I would start the steep descent into my final destination Acebo.

Every time I went round a corner I hoped I would be at the top.If you look carefully above you can see the mast that was the summit.Then came the descent!! For those who have never walked down long hills ,descending is far harder on your body,I would rather climb anyday.This was to be the mother of descents,steep and strewn with boulders.It was to go on for 3 miles.

At last Acebo came into view,it was not a moment too soon ,I was done for,I had done in one day what it takes most people to do in two.

When I got to my hotel I sat down in the garden and took my boots and socks off and did not move for half an hour  ,which is when the dog on a blog came and introduced himself.Please note my trotters.

Today has been one of the most demanding walks I have had,I am pleased I have done it ,but never again,I  cannot keep up this punishing schedule .There is no doubt all the hours Jeremy and myself put in on the The South Downs walking up Hawk Kiss and Fox Hill have really paid dividend today.

Tomorrow I have only got  12 miles to do.

Stats for today

Walked 20.02 miles

Average speed 3.00 mph

Walking time 6.51 hours

Distance to go 140 miles

Distance covered 340 miles.